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I see. Apparently the amp you have works with 3. I'm thinking of ordering one and trying it out myself. Joined Nov 20, Messages 3 Reaction score 2.
Hi, this looks like a great upgrade fantastic work!!! Just 2 questions If I wanted to fit a variable resistor into the circuit to adjust the 'gain' of the pedal i. What value would you recommend? I guess increasing the value of the variable resistor I mentioned above would lower the voltage input to the pedals - meaning the registered 'braking' value is lower for the same force on the pedal. This makes me think a 20kg Load Cell with a resistor added behaves more like a 40kg Load Cell?
Is that right, so it will only ever get 'harder' to press the pedal, the more I dial it up? I know I can adjust the dead-zone and linearity in game to get closer to what I want from the brake pedal, but I would still like some more flexibility and I noticed that Fanatec pedals have a dial mounted on the side of the load cell, was going to do the same thing small bracket between loadcell and conical bracket, with resistor dial on it.
Just not savvy enough with electronics to work it out! Thanks in advance for any help you can give me Steve W. Hi Steve, thanks! First of all, I wouldn't call it a 'great' upgrade. After fiddling with in-game brake settings as best as I could, I'm still no better with trailbraking as I was without the LC.Menu Menu.
Homemade load cell pedal
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Logitech G25, G27, G29, G920 load cell DIY project
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Useful x 6 Like x 2 Creative x 2 Winner x 1. Last edited: Oct 13, RacingMatNov 26, Cooool merci.Https://z-site.pazolini.ru/
PitNov 26, I really can has made quite real, but that's not it electronically! I brake when there is a soft and hardened it I made this sketch in the french post: you just have to use 2 different springs at different location and a hard sleeve. RacingMatApr 5, Hi Racingmat, will it work also fine with only one load cell? So i'm searching for an DIY alternative! So my questions is if your circuit works fine for my sultan too?
Best regards Waldemar Jost. WowaDriverJul 9, WowaDriver : what are the specs of your load cell? You can see 4 wires because it is in fact 2 load cell in wheatstone bridge It only requires to output V range for 0 to kg range.
Informative x 2 Winner x 1. RacingMatJul 24, Thanks Racingmat for your reply. Yes it would be a load cell like the one you post with the normal structure of 4 wires And i thought the output range is between V! Thanks a lot, so i have to experiment with it!
Thanks again! Didn't remember that there are to DMS on the stick. Last edited: Jul 24, WowaDriverJul 24, These are the same size bearings which are used in skateboards, and readily available. The bearings are epoxied into place. I needed about 25mm of spacing between the bearings to fit the pedal arms.
The bearings are sitting on an M8 bolt.Vz bcm reset
These are reliable and durable. Pots also would have also worked ok for gas and clutch. The picture below shows the brake spring stack at the top, throttle on the right, and clutch spring on the left.DIY Sim Racing Pedals
The brake and throttle pedals geometry is such that the spring pivot stays approximately perpendicular to the pedal travel. Some might say that the throttle could use a potentiometer, since it is position sensitive, unlike a brake which should be pressure sensitive.
The brake pedal spring stack is exploded below. The elastomers slide smoothly over the PTFE tube. I have used two nuts and a small m6 washer as a stop for the coil spring just above the coil spring in the photo belowas well as holding the length of PTFE tubing in place.
I cut the length of the PTFE tubing precisely so that the coil spring can compress about 6mm before the m6 washer hits into the m8 washer of the first fibroelast. This gives the brake a two stage feel. The spring support for the load cell on the brake and throttle is made up of several pieces of timber glued together and sanded into a suitable shape.
It sets the spring at 45 degrees to the load cell. You can see the RS bearings in the spring backplate, epoxied in place. I used a long 8mm bolt and some m10 nuts and m8 washers to hold the bearings straight while gluing them in place. A pair of 8mm bolts hold the bearings onto the outer support which is then bolted the load cell.
The throttle damper is the small one. The more spring force being used, the more damping you want. I bought all the dampers off ebay.
I sketched accurate drawings of the pedal geometry, and the distance they travel.
These ones are fully adjustable, you pull the rod out to full extension and then you can turn it to fine tune the damping rate.Menu Menu. Search Everywhere Threads This forum This thread. Search titles only. Search Advanced search…. Everywhere Threads This forum This thread.
Custom Hydraulic + Load Cell Sim Racing Pedals
So best to DIY this imo. Last edited: Feb 13, Reactions: GeekyDeaks and BluePotato Oct 8, Nice tutorial. The load cell needs to be higher rating though. FCL I'd say this is the one you'd like to use. It doesn't need an amplifier as well since it outputs 3 wires and 0,5V directly. Can be supplied with 3. Alsoif you look closely on the picture you just posted abovethe load cell is the one I posted ;- 20Kgs are used in other applicationswhere the pedal arm is the load cell itself.
This particular design is used as a levermeaning that the 25lbs on the load cell you stated would need almost half the pressure on foot. So it definitely is not adequate for this use.Liverpool, Man City and Spurs play in the Champions League on Tuesday - and Charlie Nicholas predicts one of them won't win. We asked the Soccer Saturday pundit whether N'Golo Kante really is the Premier League.
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T3PA loadcell upgrade DIY guide
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